Bar Italia in London’s Soho

Why one of the world’s most famous cafes – Bar Italia in London’s Soho - has only ever used Gaggia coffee machines for 75 years
 
It’s the most iconic coffee bar in London – if not the world – and synonymous with Gaggia coffee machines.

Bar Italia opened at 22 Frith Street in the heart of Soho in 1949 – the year before legendary Italian coffee machine manufacturer Gaggia sold its first machine in the UK.

Bar Italia was founded by Lou and Caterina Polledri and then run by their son, Nino.
It’s now run by their grandchildren Antonio, Lou and Veronica with Lou’s three children Anthony, Louis and Francesca working in the business which is now into its fifth generation.

Lou and Caterina possibly bought the first Gaggia coffee machine in the UK which was operated by levers and only had one boiler. It’s been a centrepiece in the café ever since, still works brilliantly and is now being renovated.

Antonio, who joined the business in 1982 when he was 16, said: “That original Gaggia machine is a work of art. We’ve always stayed with Gaggia because both Gaggia and Bar Italia are iconic brands, successful and consistent.

“Gaggia is an absolute workhorse of a machine. We’re open seven days a week so our Gaggia coffee machine is virtually working non-stop all day, every day. Even the modern Gaggia machine we now also use has a retro feel which fits Bar Italia very well.

“Some of our staff have been with us for 30 years and it’s all about knowing your customer, the coffee they want and exactly how they want it.”

Lou and Caterina came to London from Piacenza in northern Italy and the day they opened  Bar Italia in 1949 was certainly a memorable one.

It was officially opened by famous American comedy duo Abbott and Costello and they then had a competition to see who could drink the most coffee with the winner getting a small Gaggia machine to take home … and it was won by a little old lady who walked off with it tucked under her arm.

When Bar Italia opened, Soho had a very large Italian population and the café quickly became a fantastic social centre for the Italian community in London.

Since then its reputation has grown to be hailed as one of the best coffee bars in the world and has attracted millions of people and countless celebrities over the decades, welcoming stars such as Al Pacino, Elizabeth Taylor, Mick Jagger, David Bowie, Paul Weller and Martin Freeman through the doors.

Bar Italia, which is across the road from Ronnie Scott’s world-famous jazz club, has won the Best Café In London award at the London Lifestyle Awards for the last five years and hopes to make it six in a row at the awards on November 2.

It’s also the third ‘most beautiful cafe on earth’ according to The Telegraph’s rankings in 2022. 

Bar Italia is open 21 hours a day from 7am until 4am seven days a week.

Antonio explains: “You’re in the heart of theatre land and people don’t necessarily want to go straight home when they’ve come out of the theatre. They may want to come for a coffee, sit down and talk to their friends and people watch. This is a very special place to watch people.”

One regular customer is boxing promoter Dean Powell, who says: “It has an ambience about it. I think everyone in the world knows Bar Italia. It has a great lively, busy atmosphere.”

Bespoke tailor Mark Powell, who goes to Bar Italia just about every day, adds: “It’s still got that old school feel. You could think you were in a time capsule in the late 1940s or early 50s and it’s kept its character so well.”

Another regular, Paul S, wrote on Trip Advisor: “Best coffee in London and a truly authentic experience 24/7. An oasis of calm to escape the madness of the West End.

“Bar Italia has been welcoming all discerning tribes for 70 years with a history and loyal following to die for. If in doubt, simply refer to the walls to see the joy in pictures and trophies from the famous and not-so-famous who enjoyed a visit.

“Its abiding secret is never to change or respond to fleeting fancies. Simply offer great coffee, decent food and a unique place to meet a friend, fall in love or watch the world go by - and occasionally brush shoulders with a celebrity or two.

“As a die-hard fan since 1980 I’m pleased to have enjoyed many visits with family, friends and colleagues day, night and very early morning.”

Louie Salvoni, an Anglo-Italian coffee expert who popularised cappuccino and espresso culture, says: “Here’s what makes Bar Italia special. It’s not just the wonderful coffee, the warm greeting or the atmosphere. There is something unique.

“Coffee making is a ritual, a ritual handed down over the centuries. Here you feel the history and when you order a coffee in Bar Italia you are participating in the millions of rituals that have taken place there over the years. So perhaps that’s why it’s like no other coffee bar because here you become part of that timeless institution that is Bar Italia.”

Gaggia transformed drinking coffee into a true experience verging on performance art in the 1950s - dramatic, aromatic and utterly continental – and Bar Italia was at the centre of all that and continues to be even now, 76 years on.
​
Find out more at the Bar Italia website at http://baritaliasoho.co.uk
​
Find out more about Gaggia at 75 : www.gaggiadirect.com/gaggia-in-the-uk-75-years.html